Porter magazine’s Newby Hands on Zoltan’s services 03 2017

In the below article Newby Hands Beauty Director of Edit and Porter magazines mentions about Zoltan’s services in her recent article, see the last (highlighted) paragraph

 

beautifully SIMPLE

 

If you ’re drowning under information overload about the products, the methods, the treatments relax Newby Hands unpacks all you need to know to stay beautiful and sane..

When did it all get so complicated?

From being something that was a fun and often practical part of our lives, beauty regimes seem to have become increasingly baffling. Do we really need to know the intricacies of shaping, contouring and draping (it’s the new contouring by the way) when the reality is that most of us are still looking for a foundation that stays put and a mascara that doesn’t smudge As for skincare, between cocktailing our serums (fiddly, I know, but it works), layering and stepmasking (the peel, the serum, the moisturizer), it’s amazing we have time to run families, homes and businesses. What we all need are beauty routines that make life easier, ones that slot into the reality of your everyday and help streamline your life with solutions rather than overcomplicating it with confusing regimes. When life gets busy, beauty seems to be the one area that many women factor out, not in, which, believe me, is a mistake, as something that initially seems unimportant, compared to, say, preparing a presentation or organizing an event, can later take on disproportionate importance. Recently, a high-flying but despondent friend of mine called; she had just returned from an economic summit where she was the keynote speaker, but any sense of success was >

 

This is not about vanity, but rather instilling confidence by being prepared so you never get caught out again. As one colleague puts it, ‘It’s exhausting living in a last-minute panic’”

>overshadowed by the fact that as she walked towards the podium all she could think about was the spotlights picking out her root re-growth. “I’d prepared in every other way but this totally swept away my confidence. It hadn’t seemed important before, but at that moment it was all that mattered.” Other women I’ve spoken to report losing their thread mid-presentation when they notice how unkempt their nails look and how much they want to hide them. Why, they ask themselves in anguish, didn’t I book in for a manicure? This is not about vanity, but rather instilling confidence by being prepared so you never get caught out again. As one colleague whose evenings are taken up with events puts it, “It’s exhausting living in a last-minute panic.” Prioritize what matters and, if you are not already doing so, start to block-book rolling appointments for hair color, manicures, blow outs and waxing. One friend who travels extensively advises booking two appointments, a few days apart: “That way if I have to cancel one I always have a back-up. It’s one less thing to think about. ” Over the years, I too have developed my own ‘back-up’ – a list of the treatments to book and the products to never run out of because they provide the best solutions to those beauty problems that would otherwise be one more thing to worry about. These are what I constantly share with others who also seek to streamline their lives. While some may not be relevant to your specific needs, others can be game changers. For those of you who rely on regular three- to six-weekly color appointments, you need to know about Color Wow Root Cover Up, a genius mineral powder that covers roots or can even add natural-looking highlights to tide you over after a missed appointment – and it lasts between shampoos.

Although it may have received some bad press over the years, I cannot recommend highly enough a good (and there are many bad) Brazilian Blow Dry treatment. When done by a professional (my best advice is going to someone who only does this treatment and has done so for several years – most good salons now have a specialist on staff), it can transform frizzy, fluffy and bleach-puffy hair into a new sleek and manageable state. It can also dramatically improve the condition of your hair, as I have found after seeing Zoltan Vargyai (zoltan-hair.com) for the last six years. Plus, it frees up both your time – as blow outs are much faster – and your mind from the constant worry of being caught out by rain or humidity.

What is Keraplex hair treatment?

What is a Keraplex hair treatment, and how does it work?

To read and find out a little more about Olaplex Bond Building technologie click here .

The treatment combination works. It does work and can improve hair condition. I personally find that doing the treatments first an Olaplex Bond Building then any type of Keratin treatment will give you a better results as your hair will be stronger.

Today I prefer to separate the treatments and only offer Keraplex or Zolaplex when my costumers only able to visit once. If they are able to make two separate visits first for a Keratin treatment and then a stand alone Olaplex treatment I find that results are better. It is important that there are some Keratin treatments, where if Olaplex applied after the the Keratin treatment it does need a few weeks wait for Oleplex to be able to penetrate to the hair properly.

 

In the UK more and more people talking about Keraplex hair and wondering is it work, and whats the differences to a usual keratin treatment?

I have launched Zolaplex just after launching Olaplex a year ago in beginning of 2016 which is the technically same treatment people known today  (in the UK) as Keraplex hair treatment.

It is a combined treatment of two services:

stand alone Olaplex treatment

and after a Keratin treatment

 

To perform the Keraplex treatment it is usually takes around 3/4 hour longer then your usual Keratin treatment. My Zolaplex adds around 1 hour and 15 minutes to the Keratin treatment time. The treatment last as long as the Keratin treatments does.  Depending on the hair it is recommended in some cases to repeat an Olaplex treatment before the next Kera or Zola plex.

Note to US readers:

There is also a US company called Keraplex Inc producing a Keratin treatment called Keraplex which does not contain bond building or Olaplex. I have never tested or tried the product so I am unable to comment on the quality and the results achieved by this treatment.

keraplex hair smoothing treatment packaging
The 10 Sleekest Hair Texture Looks From London Fashion Week SS 2017

The 10 Sleekest Hair Texture Looks From London Fashion Week SS 2017

The 10 Sleekest Hair Looks From London Fashion Week SS17

We turn to London Fashion Week for the latest hair inspiration. Featuring the spring/summer 2017 collections meant hair was left appearing quite natural, tresses needed to have a healthy shine and have some movement on the runway.

This season the fringe dominated the catwalk. The hair fell either right below or right above the modelseyebrows and the weight was on point it wasnt too whispy or too thick there were no stringy, greasy fringes here, it was pure gloss. To get the look, we offer fringe straightening (check it out here.)

See the sleekest hairstyles seen on London Fashion Week runways, we have rounded up everything from Burberry to J.W, Anderson.

 

J.W. Anderson.

 

BURBERRY

It was all about the centre part. Hair was either left straight, had a very natural wave to it, or was slicked back into a ponytail. Overall the hair didnt detract from the clothes, it was effortless and thats why its a winner.

burberry
burberry

 

J.W. ANDERSON

J.W. Anderson mastered the fringe in his intimate show. For the girls who didnt have the crowning cut, the hair was parted to the side and it fell slightly to the side to mock side bangs.

 

 

 

FAUSTINE STEINMETZ

The models hair cascaded over her shoulder as she laid down posing for Faustine Steinmetzs presentation. The shiny hair was about as light reflecting as the Swarovski crystals adorning the garments.

 

burberry
burberry

 

 

 

MARY KATRANTZOU

Mary Katrantzous glossy locks had movement on her runway. The centre part formed a curtain of

hair around the models face, and her locks were blown backwards from the power of her strut.

 

 

 

 

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

Dorothy skipping down the yellow brick road with her embarrassing child-like pigtails had nothing on the girls on Emilia Wicksteads yellow catwalk. Their lightweight effortlessly wavy hair freely bounced behind them as they walked.

burberry

 

 

ROKSANDA

The hair was secured back behind the models ears, drawing attention to the big summer shades veiling their eyes. Parted to the side, you could see the hair was carefully brushed into its smooth streamlined shape.

 

burberry
burberry

BELSTAFF

The lovely Liv Tyler was at Belstaffs London Fashion Week presentations to present the new Belstaff x Liv Tyler capsule collection. All the girls modelling, including Liv Tyler, donned glamorous silky waves.

burberry

 

MULBERRY

Despite the number of times we saw a fringe and the eu natural tresses this season, Mulberry managed to make the look appear fresh. Even with a fringe the hair tucked was tucked behind just one of the girls ears, making here appear quite youthful. The key here was the barely there makeup. Wearing heavier makeup with a fringe can quickly turn your from school girl to vixen.

 

 

PETER PILOTTO

The modelshair hung straight down their backs to revealing their collar bones in the off-the-shoulder blouses. The naturally shiny, wavy hair looked, wellnatural, which isnt always so easy to accomplish.

burberry

ANTONIO BERARDI
Goldie Locks would be jealous of the brilliant blonde manes on Antonio Berardi’s spring runway – you can’t help but imagine the sun catching the girls’ glossy hair!

Skin test before perm, hair smoothing or hair straightening

In the past few years the UK hairdressers heard a lot of the importance of skin testing before all colour applications. Major manufacturers and the federation have asked the colour technicians to skin test 48 hours before every colour application. L’Oreal launched a website www.becoloursafe.com to promote skin testing before colouring services.

I was wondering if there are any regulations for skin testing before perming, smoothing or straightening the services what I offer.

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I’ve checked with most major manufacturers in the UK and they do not recommend skin testing pre perm, smoothing or straightening services. After calling the National Hairdressing Federation they advised that they don’t recommend to carry or don’t carry out a skin test pre perm, pre smoothing or pre straightening appointments, however they strongly advise to contact the manufacturer to clarify their requirements.

Just in case I spoke to my lawyer who said I have to check with my insurers and see their requirements. My insurers do not need me to carry out a skin test prior the services I offer.

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If you a hairstylist I would recommend you to check manufacturers instructions and your insurers requirements regarding the need of carrying out skin testing prior perming, smoothing or straightening services. If you a customer and wish to have a skin test you should freely ask your technician.

IF YOU DECIDE TO CARRY OUT AN ALLERGY TEST, IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU ALWAYS PERFORM AN ALLERGY ALERT TEST 48 HOURS BEFORE EACH USE OF A  PRODUCT, AS AN ALLERGY CAN DEVELOP SUDDENLY, EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE PREVIOUSLY USED THE SAME PRODUCT OR ANOTHER BRAND.

To carry out the Allergy Alert Test, always follow the instructions supplied with your product.

HOW TO PERFORM THE ALLERGY ALERT TEST:

Remove earrings. Behind the ear and using a cotton bud, apply a small quantity of unmixed product /solution 1 and neutraliser in separate area/ product sufficient to cover an area of 1-2cm² (e.g. the size of a small coin).
Re-apply two or three times allowing it to dry between each application. Carefully reseal the product container and keep it for the application 48 hours later.
Leave for 48 hours without washing, covering or touching.
If during this period you notice any abnormal reactions, such as itching, redness or swelling in or around the test area, DO NOT APPLY THE PRODUCT.

IN CASE OF A REACTION DURING THE APPLICATION such as intense stinging, irritation, rash or burning sensation on the scalp, rinse immediately and discontinue use. If you experience shortness of breath, seek immediate medical attention. Before perming / straightening your hair again, consult a doctor.
IF, DURING THE DAYS FOLLOWING APPLICATION, itching, redness or, spots on the scalp or skin occurs, swelling of the eyes and/or face, blisters or oozing of the scalp and/or skin occurs, it is recommended that you consult a doctor.

Formaldehyde

Working with formaldehyde

I have been working with products containing formaldehyde since 2007-2008. Done many Brazilian Keratin treatments, visited Brazil numerous occasion , where I spent time in factories, done exhibitions, and talked and visited many manufacturers. Me and my team tested probably 50-60 companies products, launched our own brand and distributed Brazilian Keratin products. In the past years I’ve done extensive research, teached my technique internationally and been asked by many beauty editors on my view on Formaldehyde. I know many stylist and customers who loves the effect of Formaldehyde, I am neither supporting or condoning using such products, the below is just my thoughts on formol and a way I am using it in salon. My treatment does not release extensive amount of formaldehyde in the air, and does not cause discomfort. However I have experienced and seen colleagues and costumers experiencing discomfort caused by formaldehyde and I think regularly  being/working in an environment  where large amount of formaldehyde is released it is unhealthy.

I urge every stylist to do they own research before using products contain formal or release formaldehyde.

So what is formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde is an organic compound, a gas at room temperature, formaldehyde is colorless and has a characteristic pungent, irritating odor. It is an important precursor to many other materials and chemical compounds.  Commercial solutions of formaldehyde in water, commonly called formol, were formerly used as disinfectants and for preservation of biological specimens. It is commonly used in nail hardeners and/or nail varnish.

Where can we find formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde is pretty much everywhere, you can find it in the air and the human body. According to a 1997 report by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, formaldehyde is normally present in both indoor and outdoor air at low levels, usually less than 0.03 parts of formaldehyde per million parts of air (ppm).Formaldehyde and its adducts are ubiquitous in living organisms. It is formed in the metabolism of endogenous amino acids and is found in the bloodstream of humans and other primates at concentrations of approximately 0.1 millimolar.  Formaldehyde is used in building materials and to produce many household products. It is used in pressed-wood products, such as particleboard, plywood, and fiberboard; glues and adhesives; permanent-press fabrics; paper product coatings; and certain insulation materials. In addition, formaldehyde is commonly used as an industrial fungicide, germicide, and disinfectant, and as a preservative in mortuaries and medical laboratories. Formaldehyde also occurs naturally in the environment. It is produced in small amounts by most living organisms as part of normal metabolic processes.

When dissolved in water, formaldehyde forms a hydrate, methanediol, with the formula H2C(OH)2. This also exists in equilibrium with various oligomers (short polymers), depending on the concentration and temperature. A saturated water solution, of about 40% formaldehyde by volume or 37% by mass, is called “100% formalin or formol“. A small amount of stabilizer, such as methanol, is usually added to suppress oxidation and polymerization. A typical commercial grade formalin may contain 10–12% methanol in addition to various metallic impurities.

Open Air method

I am a big fan of open air method, when the treatment is done in open air, when is possibility and using high heat I recommend the treatment to be performed outside a building.

This was the boring but needed bit, let’s get done to my theory

We are talking about two different substances Formaldehyde which is in the air, and Formal which is dissolved in water, so it’s in the product. Let’s look at Formalin,  in the beginning companies used up to 15% in their products. Formalin is not breathable but can touch your skin, go into your eyes, or in your mouth. It can cause irritation, redness, and skin sensitivity, and eye irritation (eye watering). The treatment not suppose to be applied on scalp, but away from the scalp, I haven’t seen any skin sensitivity for the product yet, but I can believe it’s exist. By smelling the product no one had anything bad happened, so I think we can agree that formal as it is in the treatment is harmless, until it becomes formaldehyde so it’s in the air.

The problem happens when formal becomes formaldehyde trough excess heat, that could be heat of straightening irons, or hair dryers. Using this heat the stylist release formaldehyde in the air. The effects of high formaldehyde level in the salon can cause eye irritation, nose irritation and breathing irritation, strong smell and uncomfortable smoky environment. This is short term exposure.

Blow drying, and  heat delivery method is dated, and it’s causes high level of formaldehyde in the air. I think the secret of the proper treatment is using the right amount of product to coat the hair, and use minimal heat, so we not creating extensive amount Formaldehyde in the salon. If heat not used, there is no/minimal Formaldehyde in the air, so the treatment is safer.

I developed a system which uses a different penetration methods, so we do not have to use extensive heat, whilst achieving the same or even better results without having to have large Formaldehyde levels in the air.

We sent detailed information to EU and USA hair, and health government bodies but tbh no one was interested to support a research and develop the safe use of the treatment. They only care about the Formol % in the product.

Cancer warnings

Although the short-term health effects of formaldehyde exposure are well known, less is known about its potential long-term health effects. In 1980, laboratory studies showed that exposure to formaldehyde could cause nasal cancer in rats. This finding raised the question of whether formaldehyde exposure could also cause cancer in humans. In 1987, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) classified formaldehyde as a probable human carcinogen under conditions of unusually high or prolonged exposure

Oregon OSHA conducted air monitoring during treatments using the Brazilian Blowout smoothing product at seven different salons where a single treatment was conducted over the course of the day. The 8-hour average exposures ranged from a low of 0.006 parts per million(ppm) to 0.33 ppm. These compare to a permissible exposure limit of 0.75 ppm. Although it was not exceeded for any of these stylists, it should be noted that multiple treatments would increase the daily average significantly.

The short term effects as mentioned before eye, nose and breathing irritation. If you a customer visiting a salon iI think one can only experience short term effects of formaldehyde, which can not cause cancer on it’s own.

If you a hairstylist you could read reports on the long term effect of formaldehyde tested on builders, painters and factory workers who actually continuously during working hours under high level of formaldehyde. Formaldehyde undergoes rapid chemical changes immediately after absorption. Therefore, some scientists think that formaldehyde is unlikely to have effects at sites other than the upper respiratory tract. However, some laboratory studies suggest that formaldehyde may affect the lymphatic and hematopoietic systems.

To summarise after my studies and experiences, I don’t think Formaldehyde can cause an ongoing problem to the customer, when she/he is only exposed for a short time, but it can cause discomfort. I think stylist should start using a method which does not contain extensive heat and product over-use, so we do not  release large amount of Formedalhyde in the salon air. I think product companies who still sell products which contains Formal over the legal limit /there are many of them/, should think if it’s really worth it?!, and invest in research developing safe techniques.

 

 

Feel free to contact me regarding this article if you have any questions. zx

 

 

 

 

References, and links:

https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/hairsalons/

http://www.inchem.org/documents/sids/sids/FORMALDEHYDE.pdf

http://monographs.iarc.fr/ENG/Monographs/vol88/mono88-6.pdf

http://www.nicnas.gov.au/chemical-information/information-sheets/existing-chemical-info-sheets/formaldehyde-in-clothing-and-textiles-factsheet

http://www.orosha.org/pdf/Final_Hair_Smoothing_Report.pdf

https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/formaldehyde/index.html

http://www.inchem.org/documents/icsc/icsc/eics0275.htm

http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIngredients/Products/ucm228898.htm

https://www.osha.gov/OshDoc/data_General_Facts/formaldehyde-factsheet.pdf

http://www.womensvoices.org/avoid-toxic-chemicals/salon-products/hair-straightening-products-containing-formaldehyde/

http://www.cancer.gov/cancertopics/factsheet/Risk/formaldehyde

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formaldehyde

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