Porter magazine’s Newby Hands on Zoltan’s services 03 2017

In the below article Newby Hands Beauty Director of Edit and Porter magazines mentions about Zoltan’s services in her recent article, see the last (highlighted) paragraph


beautifully SIMPLE


If you ’re drowning under information overload about the products, the methods, the treatments relax Newby Hands unpacks all you need to know to stay beautiful and sane..

When did it all get so complicated?

From being something that was a fun and often practical part of our lives, beauty regimes seem to have become increasingly baffling. Do we really need to know the intricacies of shaping, contouring and draping (it’s the new contouring by the way) when the reality is that most of us are still looking for a foundation that stays put and a mascara that doesn’t smudge As for skincare, between cocktailing our serums (fiddly, I know, but it works), layering and stepmasking (the peel, the serum, the moisturizer), it’s amazing we have time to run families, homes and businesses. What we all need are beauty routines that make life easier, ones that slot into the reality of your everyday and help streamline your life with solutions rather than overcomplicating it with confusing regimes. When life gets busy, beauty seems to be the one area that many women factor out, not in, which, believe me, is a mistake, as something that initially seems unimportant, compared to, say, preparing a presentation or organizing an event, can later take on disproportionate importance. Recently, a high-flying but despondent friend of mine called; she had just returned from an economic summit where she was the keynote speaker, but any sense of success was >


This is not about vanity, but rather instilling confidence by being prepared so you never get caught out again. As one colleague puts it, ‘It’s exhausting living in a last-minute panic’”

>overshadowed by the fact that as she walked towards the podium all she could think about was the spotlights picking out her root re-growth. “I’d prepared in every other way but this totally swept away my confidence. It hadn’t seemed important before, but at that moment it was all that mattered.” Other women I’ve spoken to report losing their thread mid-presentation when they notice how unkempt their nails look and how much they want to hide them. Why, they ask themselves in anguish, didn’t I book in for a manicure? This is not about vanity, but rather instilling confidence by being prepared so you never get caught out again. As one colleague whose evenings are taken up with events puts it, “It’s exhausting living in a last-minute panic.” Prioritize what matters and, if you are not already doing so, start to block-book rolling appointments for hair color, manicures, blow outs and waxing. One friend who travels extensively advises booking two appointments, a few days apart: “That way if I have to cancel one I always have a back-up. It’s one less thing to think about. ” Over the years, I too have developed my own ‘back-up’ – a list of the treatments to book and the products to never run out of because they provide the best solutions to those beauty problems that would otherwise be one more thing to worry about. These are what I constantly share with others who also seek to streamline their lives. While some may not be relevant to your specific needs, others can be game changers. For those of you who rely on regular three- to six-weekly color appointments, you need to know about Color Wow Root Cover Up, a genius mineral powder that covers roots or can even add natural-looking highlights to tide you over after a missed appointment – and it lasts between shampoos.

Although it may have received some bad press over the years, I cannot recommend highly enough a good (and there are many bad) Brazilian Blow Dry treatment. When done by a professional (my best advice is going to someone who only does this treatment and has done so for several years – most good salons now have a specialist on staff), it can transform frizzy, fluffy and bleach-puffy hair into a new sleek and manageable state. It can also dramatically improve the condition of your hair, as I have found after seeing Zoltan Vargyai (zoltan-hair.com) for the last six years. Plus, it frees up both your time – as blow outs are much faster – and your mind from the constant worry of being caught out by rain or humidity.

What is Keraplex hair treatment?

What is a Keraplex hair treatment, and how does it work?

In the UK more and more people talking about Keraplex hair and wondering is it work, and what’re the differences to a usual keratin treatment?

Keraplex is a hybrid treatment a combination of two amazing stand-alone services:

  1. Olaplex bond building treatment
  2. keraSWIFT keratin repair and smoothing treatment


Using two unique treatments, which improves the hair condition so much we left with long lasting beautiful hair for months.

What are the two treatments in Keraplex?

Olaplex is a bond building treatment, it strengthens your hair internally it’s only a few years old technology which allows it te repair and reconnects broken sulphate bonds in the hair. It works amazingly as an added to technical services e.g. bleaching and colour or perms and straightening.


other keratin treatments


To read and find out a little more about Olaplex Bond Building technology click here.

The treatment combination works and can improve hair condition. I personally find that doing the treatments first an Olaplex Bond Building then any type of Keratin treatment will give you better results as your hair will be stronger, and in better condition. My costumers saying that in some ways it extends the results of the keratin treatment.

Nowadays I tend to separate the treatments and only offer Keraplex or Zolaplex when my costumers do not have time to visit the salon regurlalry. If they are able to make two separate visits first for a Keratin treatment and then a stand alone Olaplex treatment I find that results are slightly better. It is important that there are some Keratin treatments if Olaplex applied after the Keratin treatment it does need a few weeks wait for Oleplex to be able to penetrate to the hair properly.

It is important that we apply Olplex first and Keratin treatment second,  there are some Keratin treatments if Olaplex applied after the Keratin treatment it does need a few weeks wait for Oleplex to be able to penetrate to the hair properly.


To perform the Keraplex treatment it usually takes around 3/4 hour longer than your usual Keratin treatment. My Zolaplex adds around 1 hour and 15 minutes to the Keratin treatment time. The treatment lasts as long as the Keratin treatments do.  Depending on the hair it is recommended in some cases to repeat an Olaplex treatment before the next Keraplex treatment.

Note to US readers:

There is also a US company called Keraplex Inc producing a Keratin treatment called Keraplex which does not contain bond building or Olaplex. I have never tested or tried the product so I am unable to comment on the quality and the results achieved by this treatment.

keraplex hair smoothing treatment packaging


Working with formaldehyde

I have been working with products containing formaldehyde since 2007-2008. Done many Brazilian Keratin treatments, visited Brazil numerous occasion , where I spent time in factories, done exhibitions, and talked and visited many manufacturers. Me and my team tested probably 50-60 companies products, launched our own brand and distributed Brazilian Keratin products. In the past years I’ve done extensive research, teached my technique internationally and been asked by many beauty editors on my view on Formaldehyde. I know many stylist and customers who loves the effect of Formaldehyde, I am neither supporting or condoning using such products, the below is just my thoughts on formol and a way I am using it in salon. My treatment does not release extensive amount of formaldehyde in the air, and does not cause discomfort. However I have experienced and seen colleagues and costumers experiencing discomfort caused by formaldehyde and I think regularly  being/working in an environment  where large amount of formaldehyde is released it is unhealthy.

I urge every stylist to do they own research before using products contain formal or release formaldehyde.

So what is formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde is an organic compound, a gas at room temperature, formaldehyde is colorless and has a characteristic pungent, irritating odor. It is an important precursor to many other materials and chemical compounds.  Commercial solutions of formaldehyde in water, commonly called formol, were formerly used as disinfectants and for preservation of biological specimens. It is commonly used in nail hardeners and/or nail varnish.

Where can we find formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde is pretty much everywhere, you can find it in the air and the human body. According to a 1997 report by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, formaldehyde is normally present in both indoor and outdoor air at low levels, usually less than 0.03 parts of formaldehyde per million parts of air (ppm).Formaldehyde and its adducts are ubiquitous in living organisms. It is formed in the metabolism of endogenous amino acids and is found in the bloodstream of humans and other primates at concentrations of approximately 0.1 millimolar.  Formaldehyde is used in building materials and to produce many household products. It is used in pressed-wood products, such as particleboard, plywood, and fiberboard; glues and adhesives; permanent-press fabrics; paper product coatings; and certain insulation materials. In addition, formaldehyde is commonly used as an industrial fungicide, germicide, and disinfectant, and as a preservative in mortuaries and medical laboratories. Formaldehyde also occurs naturally in the environment. It is produced in small amounts by most living organisms as part of normal metabolic processes.

When dissolved in water, formaldehyde forms a hydrate, methanediol, with the formula H2C(OH)2. This also exists in equilibrium with various oligomers (short polymers), depending on the concentration and temperature. A saturated water solution, of about 40% formaldehyde by volume or 37% by mass, is called “100% formalin or formol“. A small amount of stabilizer, such as methanol, is usually added to suppress oxidation and polymerization. A typical commercial grade formalin may contain 10–12% methanol in addition to various metallic impurities.

Open Air method

I am a big fan of open air method, when the treatment is done in open air, when is possibility and using high heat I recommend the treatment to be performed outside a building.

This was the boring but needed bit, let’s get done to my theory

We are talking about two different substances Formaldehyde which is in the air, and Formal which is dissolved in water, so it’s in the product. Let’s look at Formalin,  in the beginning companies used up to 15% in their products. Formalin is not breathable but can touch your skin, go into your eyes, or in your mouth. It can cause irritation, redness, and skin sensitivity, and eye irritation (eye watering). The treatment not suppose to be applied on scalp, but away from the scalp, I haven’t seen any skin sensitivity for the product yet, but I can believe it’s exist. By smelling the product no one had anything bad happened, so I think we can agree that formal as it is in the treatment is harmless, until it becomes formaldehyde so it’s in the air.

The problem happens when formal becomes formaldehyde trough excess heat, that could be heat of straightening irons, or hair dryers. Using this heat the stylist release formaldehyde in the air. The effects of high formaldehyde level in the salon can cause eye irritation, nose irritation and breathing irritation, strong smell and uncomfortable smoky environment. This is short term exposure.

Blow drying, and  heat delivery method is dated, and it’s causes high level of formaldehyde in the air. I think the secret of the proper treatment is using the right amount of product to coat the hair, and use minimal heat, so we not creating extensive amount Formaldehyde in the salon. If heat not used, there is no/minimal Formaldehyde in the air, so the treatment is safer.

I developed a system which uses a different penetration methods, so we do not have to use extensive heat, whilst achieving the same or even better results without having to have large Formaldehyde levels in the air.

We sent detailed information to EU and USA hair, and health government bodies but tbh no one was interested to support a research and develop the safe use of the treatment. They only care about the Formol % in the product.

Cancer warnings

Although the short-term health effects of formaldehyde exposure are well known, less is known about its potential long-term health effects. In 1980, laboratory studies showed that exposure to formaldehyde could cause nasal cancer in rats. This finding raised the question of whether formaldehyde exposure could also cause cancer in humans. In 1987, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) classified formaldehyde as a probable human carcinogen under conditions of unusually high or prolonged exposure

Oregon OSHA conducted air monitoring during treatments using the Brazilian Blowout smoothing product at seven different salons where a single treatment was conducted over the course of the day. The 8-hour average exposures ranged from a low of 0.006 parts per million(ppm) to 0.33 ppm. These compare to a permissible exposure limit of 0.75 ppm. Although it was not exceeded for any of these stylists, it should be noted that multiple treatments would increase the daily average significantly.

The short term effects as mentioned before eye, nose and breathing irritation. If you a customer visiting a salon iI think one can only experience short term effects of formaldehyde, which can not cause cancer on it’s own.

If you a hairstylist you could read reports on the long term effect of formaldehyde tested on builders, painters and factory workers who actually continuously during working hours under high level of formaldehyde. Formaldehyde undergoes rapid chemical changes immediately after absorption. Therefore, some scientists think that formaldehyde is unlikely to have effects at sites other than the upper respiratory tract. However, some laboratory studies suggest that formaldehyde may affect the lymphatic and hematopoietic systems.

To summarise after my studies and experiences, I don’t think Formaldehyde can cause an ongoing problem to the customer, when she/he is only exposed for a short time, but it can cause discomfort. I think stylist should start using a method which does not contain extensive heat and product over-use, so we do not  release large amount of Formedalhyde in the salon air. I think product companies who still sell products which contains Formal over the legal limit /there are many of them/, should think if it’s really worth it?!, and invest in research developing safe techniques.



Feel free to contact me regarding this article if you have any questions. zx





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